Adult Education:

Training an Older Dog

by Kathy Santo

Kathy Santo, author of Dog Sense, has trained dogs for both home and competition. She sees more than 100 dogs each week at her obedience school.

Text Copyright the American Kennel Club, Inc., 2009. No portion of this article may be reproduced without permission of the copyright holder. Reprinted with permission from AKC Family Dog, January/February, 2009. To subscribe: http://www.akc.org/pubs

Have you hesitated to adopt an adult dog from purebred rescue because you wonder how-or if-an older dog can be trained? Or do you already have an adult dog who's just never gotten the hang of obedience commands? Here's good news: You can teach an old dog new tricks!

Malaine Connor

Connor lives in Sydney Australia with Marilyn and David Banfield

What's in a name?

If a dog arrives at rescue without a name, the volunteers will give him one. But not every dog will have acclimated to it by the time he's arrived at his new home. This can be a good thing-if you detest the name he's been given-or a bad thing, if he appears deaf because he doesn't respond when you call him. That's when we play a simple name game. For a dog who's lived with you all his life and still shows a lack of interest when called (even after he's passed a hearing test), this game will help remind him "who" he is, and also how rewarding it is when he responds to his name.

Begin with your hungry dog on leash in a distraction-free area. Make sure you have a generous supply of whatever soft treats he finds most compelling. (Warning: The treats can't be the same tidbits he gets every day just for looking cute; they must be high-value treats, as in deli turkey breast, bits of cheese, and so on.) Those of you with dogs who aren't foodies can use a favorite toy, but it must be kept out of the general toy population during the entire time you're trying to teach him his name. This could be days, or even weeks, but it's important to keep the value of the special toy as a reward.

The game starts with you holding the leash and saying the dog's name. (Sit on the floor if you have a small dog.) When he looks at you, say, "Yes!" and give him a treat-or a brief play session with the toy-and lots of verbal praise. Repeat this process until he looks at you every time you say his name. Gradually increase your distance away from him, and start adding distractions to this game: It's vital that your dog respond to his name no matter what else is going on around him.

Eventually he'll understand that his name is a precursor to something great so don't call his name, grab him, and toss him in the tub if he hates baths! If you notice your dog looking at you during the day, when you're not having a training session, say his name, reward, and praise him anyway. The final step is to decrease the food or toy rewards, gradually phasing them out altogether, but leaving the "Yes!" and verbal praise in place forever.

Old Dogs, New Commands

You say come, but your dog doesn't. You say sit, and nothing happens. You scoff at the idea that stay could ever be in your dog's repertoire, and the thought of him ever lying down because you asked him to gives you the giggles (or makes you weep). You are not alone.

The good news is that you can successfully teach your dog to do all those things, and many more, but you'll get farther, faster, if you teach them with different commands than the ones he's learned to ignore. Here can replace come. Wait is the new stay. Try relax for a down. And how about a cheerful let's go! instead of a stern heel! If you know another language-or have always wanted to learn one translate those English commands to your language of choice.

Of course, simply changing the word won't teach your dog the meaning of it, but you will be starting with a clean - slate, It's easier to teach a dog a new cue word than it is to teach him a new meaning for an old word. Starting from scratch and instilling positive associations (and owner consistency) with a new cue will accelerate the learning process.

Tynan Magee of the Jean
Owned by Mark Lynch and shown by daughter Amelia

The Leash You Can Do

You love your dog's enthusiasm for walks, but he pulls so hard that one of your arms is longer than the other. For whatever reason, you've allowed your dog to believe that pulling as hard as he can is an acceptable way for him to walk you. There are so many reasons why dogs pull, and so many solutions to the problem, that the subject probably warrants a column of its own. But with the addition of a proper collar (check with a trainer to make sure the one you're using isn't adding to the problem) and a new attitude (your own), pulling can become a thing of the past.

Old routine: He pulled-you followed.

New routine: He pulls, you stop moving forward. He stops, you praise, reward, and move forward again. Champion pullers may require that you actually back up a
few steps in order to impress upon them that not only does pulling end the forward momentum, it actually causes them to lose ground. Expect a look of complete shock from your dog the first few times you do this, and be prepared to reward him with treats and praise, both when he stops moving and when he walks more calmly.

Another strategy is to make yourself the most interesting thing in the world to your dog during your walks. Usually this involves having a bag stuffed with irresistible food, at least initially. In the beginning stages of training, praise and reward your dog with a treat anytime he looks at you. You'll notice your dog checking in with you more often, and staying closer to you, too.

Way To Go!

If your adopted dog spent time as a stray before his domesticated, indoor life with you, there's a failey good chance he subscribes to the "When you gotta go, you gotta go" philosophy. Or perhaps you've had your dog since he was a puppy, and he still can't get the hang of this housebreaking business. In either case, you can teach your old dog this new behavior, although it's going to take a lot of consistency on your part. Important: As always, before beginning training to correct a problem, check with your veterinarian to make sure a medical condition-for example, a bladder infection-isn't at the heart of the trouble.

By monitoring your dog's whereabouts at all times-and confining him in a crate when you can't be with him-you can strive to prevent him from ever eliminating inside. Normally, a dog will not foul his "den"-in this case, his crate. And if you watch him the rest of the time, you can get him outside when it's time to "go." Eventually this will teach him that the only acceptable potty area is the great outdoors. Corrections of any sort for housebreaking transgressions should never be given; whenever an accident takes place, the responsibility falls squarely on the shoulders of the humans in the house. By never allowing your dog to have an accident indoors, you'll end his habit of using the floor (or the rug, or the couch) as his personal Porta-John. And of course, when he does go in the proper place outside, be sure to follow up with lots of praise.

Old dog, new tricks? No problem. Old owners, new habits? More challenging, but definitely doable!